This Thursday, Americans will gather around family (and football) to anoint a succulently roasted bird the grand symbol of our venerated Thanksgiving tradition. We will eat dishes in honor of that first harvest festival in 1621. Cranberry sauce, stuffing, rolls, pies, and, of course, honey-hued turkeys are the dishes we Americans will enjoy, as they were enjoyed by the Pilgrims and the Wampanoag almost 400 years ago. But I wonder if we are confused about what, exactly, our Thanksgiving tradition honors. I don’t mean to ruffle the feathers of the those who insist on turkey for Thanksgiving, but historians speculate that it was duck, or even heath hen—so numerous around Plymouth at the time—and not wild turkey that the Pilgrims and Native Americans feasted on in 1621. Even if turkey was served, historians argue, it was certainly not the showpiece of the feast that it is today. Instead, the Pilgrims’ oohs and aahs were reserved for the five white-tailed deer brought by the Wampanoag.